Planning the Release of a Squirrel

Our Release Process

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The process described here is how we at Squirrel Refuge release tree squirrels, taking into account their natural history and some things we have learned about squirrels along the way.  It just takes ten easy (or not so easy) steps:

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Step 1 - Raise a nutritionally healthy squirrel

We can always tell a squirrel raised at Squirrel Refuge from their wild counterparts.

Why? Because they are typically bigger and have much fluffier tails*.  While that probably

seems counterintuitive, by providing the ideal nutrition, environment, healthcare

and physical conditioning, squirrels reared in captivity don’t have to contend with

many of nature’s little uglies such as food competition, disease and parasites.  If a squirrel

in your care is failing to thrive, consider improving its diet and environment.  Never release

any animal you are not 100% sure is healthy and fit to survive in the wild.

 

*Squirrels entering rehabilitation very young without the benefit of antibodies and a good start on mother’s milk or those with a sensitivity to formula are often smaller and require more time to archive healthy weight gain as compared to squirrels entering rehabilitation after three to four weeks in the care of their mothers. Obviously mother’s milk is superior to even formulas made specifically for squirrels.

 

Step 2 - Raise a physically healthy squirrel

At about six weeks, baby squirrels need to have plenty of room to run, learn to jump to and from various sized solid and unstable branches and surfaces, and play rough and tumble with other squirrels.  Squirrels must have at least a few hours a day out of their cage to ensure they are strong enough to endure the physical demands they will be immediately faced with upon release.

 

Step 3 - Raise to be mentally prepared

As with children leaving home for the first time, it takes more than physical preparedness

to handle the challenges of the adult world.  A coddled baby isn’t going to be ready to see

your tail lights if you don’t take purposeful steps to prepare for the big day.

 

Step 4 - Form a good sized release group

At Squirrel Refuge, when an orphan arrives, it is placed with orphans of the same species and

developmental stage as part of a ‘release group.’  These squirrels will go through the rehabilitation

process together, grow and develop together, wild up together, and be released together.

 

Growing up with ‘siblings’ (Even those artificially introduced) builds life long relationships and the social skills that will be the backbone of hand rearing a squirrel that knows what he  or she is and how to interact with its own species in the wild.   The ideal group size is  at least  3  to 5 squirrels Per box. The larger the release group, the less likely it will be that a resident squirrel will even attempt to display your squirrels at the release site.  After all, no squirrel wants to mess with a ‘gang’ of large healthy squirrels.

 

We don’t ever recommend releasing a single squirrel, particularly one reared alone.  A baby raised with humans before its eyes open and then subsequently not given the opportunity to interact with other squirrels will never behave properly in the wild much like a human would behave in  an analogous situation.   Squirrels such as these will live as outcasts. Always raise wildlife with others of its kind.   A single squirrel raised alone past sixteen weeks is what we call at Squirrel Refuge, a pet squirrel.   If the single squirrel entered care at an age where its eyes were opened (after five weeks), it can often be successfully released alone if returned where it was found among genetically related squirrels.

 

Step 5 - Build or buy a release box

Reference the links for building or buying a release box to help you to provide appropriate housing.  The squirrel must be use to the box before being released. We recommend moving the release box into the enclosure a minimum of one week before release, preferably longer.  Fill the box with any material that  is warm but will dry out quickly if wet such as dried moss or artificial fabrics like  fleece cut into  strips so the squirrels can easily arrange to their liking.  (We HIGHLY recommend Polyfil as it is very insulating and will wick any moisture that a squirrel will bring into the box on its fur.) Do not include any ‘stringy’ materials that may get wrapped around legs or toes.

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Step 6 - Acclimate to outside temperatures

If you’re releasing in spring or summer, this is usually not a huge issue. If you are releasing in weather that is substantially different than their climate of rearing (or in winter), you must acclimate the squirrel to the outside temperatures before release. This means putting the squirrels outside in a large predator proof cage protected from direct sun, snow, cold wind, or rain during the day for a few weeks before leaving out overnight. The cage bars should be no larger than 1/2 inch apart.  Whenever, you leave a squirrel outside you must provide it with ample room to move away from the sides of the cage and a box where it can retreat from the sight of predators.

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The box must be positioned to prevent raccoons or cats reaching in and grasping an arm or tail.

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Step 7 - Select the release location

The ideal location is at or near where the squirrels where recovered.   While parks look ideal, its usually illegal to release there and generally there’s already an abundant population of squirrels present who will chase off your squirrels at the first opportunity.

 

Select an area with lots of trees where the branches overlap.   Squirrels are safest when they are able to move from tree to tree without traveling at ground level. This is true for Eastern Gray, Douglas squirrels and chipmunks. Fox squirrels and any species of ground squirrel are more comfortable on the ground.

 

Select a tree that’s 10 or more inches in diameter. Bigger is better! Evergreens are ideal but deciduous trees work as well.  If its near nut bearing oaks, walnuts or filberts all the better.

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Step 8 - Get prepared!

On the morning of the release,  have your nails, hammer, something ‘breathable’ to block the squirrels in the box (we place a piece of hardware mesh over the opening and secure with a bungee cord), ladder and and anything else you need ready to go.   If the squirrels are wild and not easily contained, you will need to block them in early in the morning while its still dark to make sure everyone is in the box for their big adventure.  The squirrels must not be contained in the small box for more than an hour and always make sure that air is available.

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Step 9 - Up you go!

This is the riskiest part of the entire process (and my least favorite!).  We recommend hiring a tree trimmer or someone use to climbing trees to place the nest box.  If you do decide to do this yourself (at your own risk), we have a few suggestions pulled from our own Squirrel Refuge book of shame.

• The nest box must be at least 20 feet up in the tree and you must get the squirrels up to the nest box.  If they don't know where the nest box is, they may be disoriented and run off once released. Usually they will reconnect with each other and find the nest box, but to ensure that they do, we recommend releasing the squirrels in or near the nest box.

• Clear away any branches that may impair access to the tree and ensure the ladder is firmly set on level ground.  

• Avoid setting the ladder on or near a beehive.

• Go up the ladder and firmly place a nail in the tree before going up with the box.

• Ensure the nail is long enough to go into the trunk and not just the bark so that it can bear the weight of the box.

• Make sure the nest box has some way to hook it on the nail  before taking it up the tree (A). This will make it much easier to affix the box to the tree and reduce the likelihood of needing to balance on the ladder, while balancing a box of angry squirrels in one hand and leaning back to reach over the box to affix it to the tree with the other (This is much harder than it sounds).

• Attach flexible metal bands to the box. The bands can be bent to the contour of the tree making attaching it to the tree much easier. (B)

• Ensure you can easily remove the covering over the opening of the box once its secured to the tree.  I replace the covering used during transport with a big wadded up towel that I can just pull out when the box is on the tree.

• Avoid dropping the box full of squirrels.  It makes you feel bad and it freaks out the squirrels.

• You can put them in a carrier and take the carrier up the ladder to the box if you have any doubts.

• Be prepared to have squirrels either jump from the carrier or refuse to leave the carrier, placing you in the position of balancing on a ladder suspended twenty or more feet above the ground trying to coax them out.  This can prove impossible and require you dismantle the carrier while balancing on the ladder.

• Don’t drop the carrier full of squirrels.

• Don’t stick your bare hand in the carrier and try dragging the squirrels out if they are upset.  Be prepared to take the carrier apart with the opening facing the tree and push them towards the box or trunk.

• When opening the box or the carrier Its best to have the opening facing a branch - some overly ambitious squirrels use to jumping from the box onto a nearby side wall have been sadly disappointed to find it now replaced with air.

• Make sure the house is right side up before securing it to the tree.

• Lastly, avoid bringing anyone with you who will laugh, heckle or post videos on Facebook but do make sure you do not attempt this without someone there with access to a phone who can direct emergency services to your exact location. 

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Rehabilitating that squirrel on your own doesn't sound so good anymore, does it?

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Step 10 - Follow up support

Squirrels born in the spring have it much easier since they have plenty of food and time to prepare for winter. These squirrels should still be provided with supplemental food and water (if no natural source is readily available) for at least a month post release.

 

Fall born squirrels don’t have it nearly as easy.  In the wild, fall born squirrels ‘over winter ‘with their mothers who have presumably prepared for them by storing food.  Since they have no mother and no food stores, they MUST be  provided for until spring, otherwise they will very likely starve over the winter months or fall prey as they venture out in search of food in unfamiliar areas.